Muere Joël Robuchon, el chef con más estrellas Michelin del mundo. Su receta mas conocida:el puré de patatas

El francés Joël Robuchon, famoso por ser el chef con más estrellas de la guía Michelin -logró 32- en el mundo, murió hoy en Ginebra a los 73 años de edad como consecuencia de un cáncer, informó el servicio de prensa del cocinero.

Robuchon, que desde la década de 1990 tenía una fuerte relación con España, donde poseía una casa cerca de Alicante (sureste) y participó en el programa “Master Chef”, había sido operado hace un año de un tumor en el páncreas.

Nacido en 1945 en Poitiers (centro-oeste de Francia), Robuchon recibió numerosos reconocimientos a lo largo de su carrera, como el título de mejor cocinero del siglo por Gault & Millau, en 1990, que se sumó a las 32 estrellas Michelin que recogió por platos como su puré de patatas o su tarta de trufas.

“El mayor profesional que la cocina francesa ha tenido jamás. Un ejemplo para las generaciones futuras de chefs”, escribió hoy en Twitter el jefe de cocina del Palacio del Elíseo, Guillaume Gómez, uno de los primeros en despedirse del maestro.

Cuando cumplió 50 años, después de que su restaurante “Joël Robuchon” fuera nombrado el mejor del mundo por el diario “International Herald Tribune”, el chef se retiró de los fogones para dedicarse íntegramente a la transmisión de conocimientos, lo que consiguió participando en numerosos programas de televisión.

Su intención fue hacer la cocina más accesible al gran público y lo logró con programas como “Bon Appétit Bien Sûr”, en el año 2000, donde un chef presentaba cada semana recetas simples y baratas, o emisiones como “Planète Gourmande”, a partir de 2011.

Sus viajes por Japón y su descubrimiento de los bares de tapas en España le inspiraron en la creación de un nuevo concepto de restaurante, con un ambiente más dinámico y jovial, pero ofreciendo productos de gran calidad, que se concretó en “L’Atelier”, del que hay abiertos varios locales en París.

PURÉ DE PATATAS DE JOËL ROBUCHON

Tras la Sopa de Trufas de Paul Bocuse y el Confit Byaldi de Michel Guérard, seguimos con la serie de recetas de maestros de la Nouvelle Cuisine. Hoy, una guarnición perfecta para prácticamente cualquier plato de carne: El puré de patatas de Joël Robuchon. No existe un puré de patatas más famoso que éste. Es un plato que aún se sirve en los Ateliers que Robuchon tiene repartidos por el mundo. Un plato humilde con estrella Michelin.

A destacar dos detalles: 1) Robuchon recomienda para su puré las patatas (pommes de terre, como se dice patatas en francés) de la variedad ratte. Si no encontráis, podéis usar kennebec. 2) Este puré tiene mucho sabor a mantequilla, así que es muy importante cuidar la calidad de la mantequilla. No seáis tacaños en este aspecto, el resultado merecerá la inversión.

PURÉ DE PATATAS

INGREDIENTES: 4 personas

1 kg de patatas “ratte” o “kennebec”
Agua hasta cubrir 2 dedos por encima
10 g de sal marina por cada litro de agua
250 g de mantequilla
200-300 ml de leche entera
Sal marina

Utilidades:
Tabla de equivalencias
Dónde comprar mis utensilios

PREPARACIÓN:

Lavamos 1 kg de patatas ratte y las ponemos en una olla al fuego. Añadimos agua hasta cubrir las patatas un par de dedos. Echamos 10 g de sal marina por cada litro de agua que hayamos echado. La patata estará lista cuando al pincharla caiga a la olla en pocos segundos. Cuando estén lo suficientemente frías como para poder manipularlas, pelamos las patatas y las pasamos por un pasapuré. Volvermos a echar el puré a la cacerola.

Vertemos 300 ml de leche entera en un cazo y calentamos justo hasta que vaya a romper a hervir. Ponemos al fuego medio-bajo la cacerola donde tenemos el puré y vamos amasándolo con ayuda de una cuchara durante 2-3 minutos. Agregamos 250 g de mantequilla muy fría cortada en cubos en 2 o tres veces. Removemos nuestro puré hasta que la mantequilla se haya incorporado totalmente. En este punto vamos incorporando 1 o 2 cazos de leche al puré, y removemos hasta que se haya absorbido totalmente. Cada vez conseguiremos un puré más suave, de hecho la cantidad de leche es aproximada en función de la textura que deseada. Rectificamos de sal, si fuera necesario.

Colamos el puré por un colador de malla fina para que todas las impurezas no pasen. Una vez colado podemos añadir un poco más de leche caliente para aligerar el puré. Nos quedará totalmente limpio de impurezas y muy suave. Decoramos al gusto, yo he respetado la decoración típica que hace el propio Robuchon. Y de carne, por ejemplo, un secreto ibérico a la plancha como el de la fotografía inferior.

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85 comentarios sobre “Muere Joël Robuchon, el chef con más estrellas Michelin del mundo. Su receta mas conocida:el puré de patatas

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